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London Fashion Week - TREND ALERT!

Denim - Burberry Prorsum

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Drop-Waist - Paul Smith, Daks, Christopher Raeburn

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Voluptuous Skirt - Giles, Antonio Berardi, Marchesa

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Multicolour - Saloni, MarquesAlmeida, Emilio De La Morena

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Free Nipple - Marios Schwab, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha

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High Shine - Emilio De La Morena, Felder Felder, Markus Lupfer, Richard Nicoll, McQ

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Sport Deluxe -Topshop Unique, Norma Kamali, Nasir Mazhar

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Stomach - Markus Lupfer, Jamie Wei Huang, Richard Nicoll

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Stripes – David Koma, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Giles

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*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Kristian Adanevik - London Fashion Week, SS15

The last show of the day and and hour behind schedule Kristian Aadnevik sure knows how to be fashionably late. Set in The Institute of Directors the elegance and grand design was a perfect place for his runway show. The dramatic ocean track and moody lighting set the tone as the first model stepped out in no other than a show-stopping dress. Sheer white lace fabric floated to the ground with a silver metallic waistband. You could see the inspiration from the ocean as the fabrics on the long gowns resembled waves as they fled down the catwalk. The colours were a complete mix of white, grey, lemon yellow, blossom pink, gold, black and bright blue. All garments were nipped at the waist to emphasise a strong feminine silhouette. The collection had a warrior feel to it as the models advanced in golden corset armour. Standout pieces included a structured peplum corset dress made entirely from metallic gold and dresses with intensely coloured skirts. A particular favourite was the white cleavage showing lace bodice dress descending into a full flowing skirt with galloping horse print and of course in pure Aadnevik style a nipped in metallic waistband.

Makeup was strong with dark sultry eyes, strong cheek bones and brows. Hair was mane like with tight buns along the middle part with hair tussled down the sides. Overall the show was red carpet perfection and these Kristian Aadnevik dresses will soon be gracing the pages of celebrity covered magazines very soon.

*Images to follow.

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Ashish - London Fashion Week, SS15

The fashion crowd headed to the Topshop Showspace for one of the final shows of the week. We didn’t expect anything less than glitter and sparkle and all things fabulous. The beach set up with deckchairs and parasols set the temperament for Spring Summer, combined with ice-lollies and refreshments it was a perfect introduction.  The first model stepped out in rainbow sequined short two-piece and as they drifted past in an array of multicolours it was soon apparent that Ashish had opted for a strong all black cast. Vibrant shiny strips were combed through the hair and eyes sparkled with glitter in every itineration of his signature sequins. The male models were adorned with snake skin sequined basketball attire with diamanté covered trainers.

Yes…Ashish Gupta did indeed pay killer pop-culture homage and paired an embroidered sequin sweatshirt of ‘Kimye’ with jeans covered in One Direction. Next in line was a Miley Cyrus-inspired sweater with jeans covered in middle fingers and cigarette packs. He managed to rewrite everyday basics in sparkle! We saw classic fabrics, such as gingham and snake, reworked in sequin. Wardrobe staples such as the onesie, the denim jacket and the track pant were also re-imagined in a back to front manner displacing collars as cut-outs. Sequin-gingham on boxer shorts and delicate slip dresses slightly resembled the fifties Americana style. Hammered sequins were indigo-sprayed and sewn onto oversize pants to look like denim. It’s quite obvious that Ashish has well and truly got a sequin fetish.

The styling was over the top madness but we wouldn’t expect anything less from Anna Trevelyn. The shoes (Ashish x Topshop) were sky high, sparkly and finished with a puff of marabou. Ashish describes his SS15 collection as “a chaotic, psychological mishmash of abstract ideas that I’ve wanted to explore for ages.”

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J is for Judy Wu - Interview

We caught up with Judy Wu during London Fashion Week to check out her SS15 collection. Having previously worked at  House of Holland, Jasmine De Milo and NE•TIGER (a couture house in Shanghai) we eagerly anticipated her work and there was no disappointment…

Where did your inspiration come from for this collection?

My inspiration is from my recent trip to Rio De Janeiro I visited this beautiful botanical garden of Rio and it had so many beautiful plants and huge palm trees. I could really feel the raw energy behind the nature that formed the beautiful things so that was my inspiration. The colour palette was drawn from the garden and also the print is developed from a photograph I took there. Also the lines and the pleats are the formation of the leaf of the palm tree and the beading as well follows the shape.

What is your favourite material to work with?

I love all material but I really like thick as you can really structure it and you can use it with really nice tailoring. I like fabric with stretch to it and I also like silk. I think silk is the best material for summer, like a really nice and light silk dress. I think silk is the fabric for summer because in China, where I’m originally from, everyone wears silk in summer. In Shanghai the sun gets really hot and also silk is a really delicate fabric and it really brings out the delicacy and feminine side of a woman.

What celebrity would you most like to wear you collection?

I think in general just a woman who is very confident and they like being stylish but they’re not shouting about it, they are bold and vivacious but never over the top. If I had to give you a name I would have to say Poppy Delevingne.

What words would you use to describe your collection?

I think the name of the collection 'Spirited Away' best describes my collection. So it’s basically the moment I went into that botanical garden of Rio when I was overwhelmed by the raw energy of the nature. 

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Christopher Kane - London Fashion Week, SS15

The recent passing of Christopher Kane’s friend and mentor Louise Wilson has left the designer in a reflective mood. This has led him to revisit some ideas from his early work, for example a knot motif that nods to the nautical as it adorns some of the collections dresses and acts as a fastening on tailored jackets. But this is not Kane as we’ve seen him before. The unbridled, and at times chaotic, creativity that usually characterises his collections has given way to something altogether more sophisticated.

For SS15 the Kane woman is feminine through and through. Delicate silk dresses and chic, classic tailoring reign, as bursts of tulle explode from structured pieces. This collection surely marks a fashion milestone. Kane has single-handedly managed the impossible and given the twinset a cool make-over. The colour palette for the pieces is similarly refined, using burgundy, cream, navy, lavender and classic black in head-to-toe ensembles. 

Kane’s latest offering verges on prim, but is saved from this fate thanks to the designer’s signature twist: leather is paired with twinsets, daring, sheer fabrics contrast classic tailoring, and cut-out details add a hint of rebellion to the lady-like looks.

This is a collection chock-full of desirable pieces, from seriously covetable trouser suits to perfect party dresses, making it a real highlight of the season. That the collection is more wearable, and certainly more coherent, than Kane’s previous work likely signifies a conscious effort on his part to move in a more commercial direction. However, it is also possible that, after the loss of his Central Saint Martins mentor, a new chapter has begun for Kane, and this more refined aesthetic represents him ‘coming of age’ as a designer.  

*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Words: Laura Smith

Thomas Tait - London Fashion Week, SS15

This year Thomas Tait became the first ever winner of the LMVH Young Fashion Designer award, and it soon became apparent at his SS15 show that he is using this new-found confidence, and prize money, to stretch himself creatively with a collection quite unlike anything else we have seen from his brand before.

Despite this new direction, one thing remains a constant: the skilful precision tailoring that brought Tait to the attention of the fashion world. In this latest collection, the designer’s offering of luxe structured trousers and jackets are sure to be commercial winners, as well as a number of softly tailored, draped pieces, not unlike the kind you would expect to find on a Vivienne Westwood runway.     

In his AW14-15 collection, Tait flirted with the idea of hybrid garments. For SS15 he has taken this to a whole new level. Each look, and virtually all individual pieces, are comprised of multiple elements. As with his previous collection, Tait experiments with contrasting colour combinations, from navy and yellow to cream and red, with a splash of turquoise and pink. Additionally, multiple fabrics are often used, with a particular focus on sheer pieces and panelling.  Most striking, however, is the way in which Tait has played with the shape of his garments. In this regard, it seems as though the designer is deliberately subverting the norm and challenging our expectations; pencil skirts are given cut out detail, while pleats are added to jackets and tunics, not forgetting some coats and blouses that have been given a one-armed make-over.

In many ways, the SS15 collection marks a pivotal time in Tait’s career as his brand begins to reach new heights. And after such a fresh, exciting offer for the summer season, we’re surely not alone in looking forward to seeing what this young designer has to offer next.

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*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Words: Laura Smith

Peter Pilotto - London Fashion Week, SS15

For design duo and masters of digital print Pilotto and De Vos, SS15 marks a move away from the brand’s signature style, to explore a younger, folksy look. While the pair nod to ‘60s trends, the result is by no means a collection of traditional peasant dresses. Instead the designers offer a modern, and at times futuristic, take on the idea. 


The folk inspirations are established in the show’s opening looks. Simply structured dresses and coats allow embroidered detail to do the talking. Rather than employing traditional cottons or linen, Pilotto and De Vos have opted for Perspex, metallic, printed or patchwork, to add a futuristic vibe to cutesy dresses.

The most striking element of this show is without doubt the colour palette. Throughout the collection the duo have skilfully utilised colour to reflect 60’s psychedelia with bold brights, from neons to primary shades of red, yellow and blue, popping against black backgrounds. Prints and embellishments are striped or blocked, most notably in a series of asymmetric dresses that combine panels in different colours and fabrics to great effect.  

If the duo’s intention was to show the world that there’s more to Peter Pilotto than just digital prints, then they’ve certainly succeeded with this technicolour treat.

*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Words: Laura Smith

Giles - London Fashion Week, SS15

Giles’ opening look for SS15 is the epitome of prep-school cool:  a pyjama-style suit in pink and white stripes, paired with matching brogues. However, while the first few pieces have a similar air of classic British summertime, these more traditional looks soon give way to something a little quirkier.

For the rest of the collection, the designer takes us into the jungle. Although this is often an inspiration behind spring-summer trends, true to form, Giles gives an eccentric take on jungle-chic that brings it right into 2015. Animal prints are a key motif for the collection, and come in several different stories : 3D snakes, big cat claws, abstract leopard prints and delicate bird designs. The wild theme is also found in a number of pieces in metallic shades that are adorned with laser cut jungle flora.   

From silk evening dresses to oversized jumpers, Giles turns his hand to just about every garment in the wardrobe. His eclectic mix of eccentric ideas results in a collection that is surprisingly wearable, and is sure not only to be a commercial hit for the brand, but also a key inspiration behind high street trends for the SS15 season. 

*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Words: Laura Smith

Tom Ford - London Fashion Week, SS15

For his SS15 collection, Tom Ford gave a nostalgic look back to some of his favourite ‘90s looks, while adding his own unique update to the styles.

Models took to the runway against a soundtrack of ‘Addicted to Love’, sporting the kind of heavy smokey eye make-up and matted hair you’d expect to see on Courtney Love after long night of partying hard. However, this nod to ‘90s grunge was counteracted by the luxurious pieces the models were wearing. This contrast between grunge and glamour runs throughout the collection, as dark moody shades of gothic black, bottle green and brown are pitted against bursts of metallic gold, silver and gunmetal.

Not one for prim and proper, Ford’s looks are nothing if not daring. For SS15, classic styles such as tailored jackets and flared trousers are mixed with sheer detail, sequin nipple covers and exposed stockings, giving the collection more than just a hint of S&M. Such is the power of Ford’s inimitable touch that these pieces, which could so easily stray into red light district seediness, somehow remain red-carpet worthy. This is largely thanks to the luxe materials they are produced in: from high shine metallic fabrics, to satin and leather, not forgetting some serious embellishment. 

This is undoubtedly a collection that will divide opinion. There is, however, one thing everyone can agree on: wherever these visually stunning pieces are seen, whether it’s at a Christmas party, the Oscars or in an editorial shoot, they will certainly make a statement.

*Images courtesy of Style.com

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Words: Laura Smith

A-Z Guide to Milan Fashion Week

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*Gucci, Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear. Image courtesy of Style.com 

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A - Alberta Ferretti

Spring/Summer ‘15 catwalk show, 5 pm Wednesday 17th September.

B – Bulgari Hotel

Why not stay at this beautiful hotel in the heart of the fashion quarter. It’s the only hotel in the city with a garden and the spa, with a stone and gold mosaic swimming pool, offers serene sanctuary.

C - Concert

On Saturday September 20th, Pharrell Williams will be in Milan! Performing at the Mediolanum Forum in Assago this is sure to be an amazing night.

D – Design

Il Design Italiano Oltre le Crisi is an exhibition currently being held at the Triennale di Milano The idea is that in years of economic crisis creativity and innovation are particularly stimulated. The visually strong exhibition explores this point by looking at three periods in recent history that were struck by economic crisis: the thirties, the seventies and the noughties. (April 4 2014 - February 22, 2015)

E – Emilio Pucci

Spring/Summer ‘15 catwalk show, 7 pm Saturday 20th September.

F – Fendi

Spring/Summer ‘15 catwalk show, 12 pm Thursday 18th September.

G – Gold Restaurant

At Dolce & Gabbana´s Gold restaurant glamour is served. Guests, immersed in an atmosphere reminiscent of La Dolce Vita, can order the Chef’s Specials, which vary periodically, and are the fruit of careful selection from the TOP dishes chosen by Gold’s Chef Claudio Arciglione and General Manager Matteo Faranda Cordella.

H – Hunting

For antiques. On the last Sunday of each month, around 400 antiques dealers display their wares at the Antiquariato sul Naviglio Grande. Running for two kilometres alongside the city’s oldest canal, the market pulls in close to 150,000 people, and is a good source of design classics, ranging from furniture and silverware to vintage watches.

I – Italian Masters

At the Pinacoteca di Brera. Displaying works by renowned artists including Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese, this public art gallery holds one of Italy’s finest art collections and is therefore an amazing place to soak up some of the city’s history and culture.

J – Just Cavalli Restaurant & Club

Owned by the famous fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, this diverse venue provides the perfect place for elite events, corporate parties, dinners in pure Cavalli style or for an unforgettable night in the cool and contemporary club.

K – Kick 

Off those Jimmy Choos and relax in Milan’s beautiful public gardens. The ideal place to unwind, away from the busy city centre.

L – Library

Gogol & Company, a sweet little library / café with friendly staff, is the perfect place in Milan to refuel. Grab a coffee, a bite to eat or even catch up on some work between shows.

M – Missoni

Spring/Summer ‘15 catwalk show, 3 pm Friday 19th September.

N – Nightlife

At Armani Prive, the most élite club in town. Located in the Fashion Quadrangle, where houses for all the top brands are located, the club is lit in soft, reddish tones and features a minimalistic Japanese design motif.

O – Only

Club to be at on a Friday is Punk Wears Prada. Don’t forget to check out the weekly themes!

P - Perfume

When in Milan, a visit to The Avery Perfume Gallery is a must. Unlike commercial perfumeries, at the intimate and welcoming Avery Perfume Gallery the idea is that they want customers to understand, engage with and enjoy the rich scents on a multi-sensory level. A great experience!

Q – Quadrilatero d’Oro

Four intersecting streets in Milan -Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga, Via Manzoni, Corso Venezia make up the Quadrilatero d’Oro (Rectangle of Gold), the ultimate place to shop in style and where you’ll find luxury labels such as Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana and Hermes.

R – Roberto Cavalli

Spring/Summer ’15 catwalk show, 12pm Saturday 20th September.

S – Solo

Located underneath the city’s finest tattoo parlour, Solo stocks an outstanding range of rare vinyl, art books and edgy zines to suit amateurs and obsessives alike.

T - 10 Corso Como

10 Corso Como is a shopping and dining complex in Milan, Italy. It combines outlets that show and sell works of art, fashion, music, design, cuisine and culture. It was founded in 1990 by gallerist and publisher Carla Sozzani and carries boundary-pushing fashion brands including Maison Martin Margiela, Alaïa, and Gareth Pugh.

U – Unusual cocktails

At Armani Bamboo Bar, one of the best places in Milan to place to enjoy some post-show cocktails. We recommend you try their “cocktails with a twist” that contain ingredients like salmon or seaweed essence.  A TWENTY6 favourite is the Blue Cheese Daiquiri.

V - Vigal & Jus

Is a “beauty hotel” with the expected hair and beauty services, as well as spa suites where models go to get the pretty on before a photo session.

W – Windows

Marvel at the massive stained glass windows of Milan’s most famous cathedral – Duomo di Milano. They really are an incredible sight and not to be missed on a visit to this city.

X – X marks the spot.

Head over to Torre Branca. The 108.60-meter-high steel tower built by architect Gio Ponti is an amazing place to enjoy panoramic views of the city and, of course, provides a great #selfie opportunity.

Y - Y-3

Y-3 is the collaboration between the sporty, chic brand Adidas and the creativity of designer Yoshji Yamamoto. Definitely check out their minimalistic boutique located on Via Cristoforis.

Z – Zzzzzzz…

Conceived by the Italian fashion house Moschino, Maison Moschino is an incredibly stylish hotel housed in an ex-railway station and what’s more, each of the 65 rooms has a totally unique design. There’s no way you could have a bad night sleep in a bed shaped like a ball gown…!

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As all returns to normal in the courtyard of Somerset House and Spring/Summer ‘15 takes center stage in the city of Milan, the TWENTY6 team bring you 26 of their highlights from the past week!

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Banqueting House for Marchesa - Wendy Rowe for Burberry with Malaika Firth - Sibling / Osman - Hollie May Saker for Erdem - Temperley London / Roksanda - Richard Nicoll - Daks London - Burberry / James Pecis using Bumble & Bumble for Whistles - Mulberry - Temperley London / Jonathan Saunders - House of Holland - Peter Pilotto / Jean-Pierre Braganza - Meadham Kirchhoff - Mulberry / Burberry Prorsum - Val Garland for Vivienne Westwood - Lucia Pica for House of Holland with Maria Borges / Mulberry - Erdem - Simone Rocha / Tilly Hardy and Connie Dog at Mulberry.

*Clockwise from left