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24 posts tagged menswear
Street wear was seen again at our last visit to The Hospital Club as Zhou puts on a spread for all the ‘Homies’. New tailoring, extra long coats and sportswear detailing brought an element of class to the street crew. Military has been a key trend throughout the AW13 shows and it was seen here again with a luxurious narcissism.
Zhou took his inspiration from the ‘back alley boys’ and from the end result they seem like LEGENDS. Boyish Mischief was echoed through iconic slogans such as ‘Boys will be boys’, whilst the sweet air of arrogance clouds the midst of baby blue. These boys take pride in their appearance but don’t be fooled, they are not a bunch of pansies. Far from it! Who else could rock a long skirt and still install a mixture of fear and respect into the beholder?
A great ending to a spectcular week. By the looks of things I need to get working on the boys to get my crew together in time for Autumn Winter 13. We’ve already got the uniform sorted.
The Twilight Saga might have finally ended but the blood thirsty lust for tortured souls is still left lingering. Eary indulges into a world of hunger, pained romance and uncontrollable thirst, and for us, it was quite the midweek trip!
Fuschia florals illuminated the catwalk with some serious swag. We saw slicked hair models give pure attitude to the back drop Hip Hop beats of Schoolboy Q & Kendrick Lamar. This definitely got the crowd swaying into some insolent grooves. Print master, Eary offers up another season sure to snapped up by every Dalstonite (me included, I WANT IT NOW!). Along with the explosion of floral you can find a ‘lobster spaceship’ and a ‘corpse bouquet’ here. Ooooerrrrr!
Models came complete with metal hardware necks and vampire teeth courtesy of Bunny Hazel Clarke. If that wasn’t enough to convince you, the fabrications this season are something spectacular. Silk bonded neoprene, metallic gauzes & oversized mohairs brings a sense of luxury to streetwear for Autumn Winter ‘13.
Forget Edward Cullen, this gangster tribute to the lavish living dead will get you hot under the collar!
Images courtesy of Fashionisto
Newcomer to the London Collections: Men scene, Jae Wan presents his clever tailoring with grandiose style. He attacks tailoring in a fresh and complex manner, showcasing his immense skills in cut.
Park has looked to traditional menswear to create a collection to ‘stand the test of time’. Injecting complexity through the seams of the traditional suiting, Park has certainly accomplished a strong and intricate wardrobe for the Sartorialist man.
Luxury is the key word for this collection with fabrics ranging from cashmere to a very rare Slink. I had to google it but for those of you who didn’t know (99% of us), Slink is leather made from the hide of an unborn calf. Controversial! Whichever side of the fence you sit on though, you cannot deny that this menswear collection is beautifully crafted
Taking his inspiration from John Waters characters, “the filthiest people alive”, Long presents a collection beautifully crafted with signature intricacy. Quite a task I imagine when your muse is the king of gross-out films.
For any knit kings out there this collection will be top of your wishlist for AW13 with my absolute fave being an applique flamingo jumper. Not to mention the chunky knit ‘homeless chic’ numbers courtesy of Mama Long. Outerwear was key here with silhouettes such as the bomber & Mac in new interesting fabric combinations.
This is a true work of art from Long but after many successful seasons, would we expect anything less?
Images courtesy of Style.com
ANGELO GALASSO.
Standing strong in the glistening lights of Knightsbridge lay location for the Angelo Galasso event. Greeted at the door by an impeccably dressed gentleman and instantly served a generous glass of prosecco was a welcoming end to the manic bustle of the on schedule shows.
Ostentatious in traditional Italian style, the décor was lain with croc leather fittings and ornate silver branding. A spattering of models appear around the odd corner depicting the story of this well put together collection.
Shades of azure blue unfurl as you wonder through the show space. Crocodile leather is the main focus of the collection, seen in full length jackets of small motifs and embellishments found on the denim and accessories.
The footwear covered an array of styles, the monkstrap featuring heavily alongside horse hair lace ups. Contrast lacing and piping in pops of port, featured throughout, breaking the mould of the block colours.
Quilted jackets with oversized fur collars, classic style trainers and block colour tees seem to be key through the luxe sportswear range of the collection.
The tailoring was impeccable, slim line cuts and single and double breasted jackets with contrasting colour top stitching carry the colour palette through the formal wear. Baroque detailing and embellished dress slippers add a touch of sartorial elegance, complimented by frill placket dress shirts stamping the Italian signature.
A sophisticated affair to end 3 days of impeccable menswear. A proud day to be British.
Millie Rich
MATTHEW MILLER.
Matthew Miller launched his AW13 collection with a two fingered slogan to past generations.
A post war utilitarian design in a palette of black, stone and red was the forefront of Millers strongly rounded collection with clean silhouettes throughout. The collection takes on an anarchic and punk like form seen on key pieces with the slogan ‘Born to fail’ in flashes of angry red and tone on tone black with a hint of a modern uniform for the youth of today being evident.
Military wool suits featured heavily with exposed seams on the blazers and cropped silhouette trousers nestling neatly above the heavy black boots. Technical jersey raincoats, croc leather bikers and crisp shirting define the signature for this rebellious collection. Army issue style backpacks mirror the utilitarian construction seen throughout, tying the looks together as a whole entity.
Accents of angry red are carried throughout the collection in strategically placed strips across the back of outerwear, backpacks, and soles of the shoes and fingers of the models hands.
Miller joins the trend this season and introduces womenswear to the menswear schedule, taking a step away from the androgynous looks seen in earlier shows, and moving to a sleeker female look, with figure hugging dresses and long floating trench’s a sign of great things to come for this innovative British designer.
Millie Rich
Rose takes her influences from the Rites & Rituals of the Jamaican Rasta community where she spent her time recently. However, I can’t help but think this must be what the northern pubs of the late 70’s looked like. Beer mat bombers, super wide leg trousers and leather skinnys scream desperate pub dwellers of a mining town. Of course, as a Northerner, that desperation could just be me holding onto that Northern Soul.
Upon arrival at the presentation you were greeted with an invitation to be initiated into the Martine Rose gang. What an honour. A clever move from Rose, creating a sense of community and loyalty amongst her many followers.
Delicious double denim rose to the challenge as we are told to ‘Expect perfection’. It seams almost as if it was planned that my tv is congested with the darts at the minute too! Pork scratchings, anyone?
Martine Rose has done it again, she has given us the chance to all be “Ghetto Kings” in this editorial worthy collection. Bowl cut wigs off to her!
The men are really thinking outside the box this Fashion Week. It seems that a standard salon show is just not enough for the Mens journo’s and buyers. We want something special and the designers have certainly delivered.
As I walk into the small yet grand space just off Pall Mall I am met with a black carpeted small runway lined with a single row of chairs on each side. How perculiar. The show starts and men wearing black suits enter the catwalk. Wait a minute, someone has messed up here. They are wearing black and the carpet is black. I can’t see a thing!
On the contrary dear Watson…
One of the men weave in and out of the others in a disjointed stumble. The crowd are filled with confusion, is this supposed to be happening? The runway is suddenly lit by an array of spotlights and all becomes clear as the men reveal a contemporary dance routine.
There was ballet kicks, roly polys and even a hint of a body pop. Mr Hare has certainly outdone himself on this one with some very special help from the Joe Moran dance boys.
The shoes exuberated luxury with rabbit fur linings, effervescent animal skin trainers and polished shiny finishes. A truly spectacular offering that isn’t given justice by a still photo.
MR PORTER: LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN COLLABORATION.
Quintessentially British was the direction taken for Mr Porters presentation for the London Collections Men collaboration, this season. And they didn’t let us down.
Katie Eary, Richard Nicoll, Matthew Miller and Sibling all showcased their designs under one roof for this Brittish affair. Laid under a spattering of black gentlemans umbrellas, zebra crossings lead the way to the iconic red telephone boxes encasing each designers exclusives.
Katie Eary was the first eyecather with her high impact digital fish print with Siblings traditional leopard print adding to the colour clash. Matthew Miller and Richard Nicoll both go for minimal features using constructional shapes and forms for their pieces.
And as if the affair couldn’t get anymore British, Good and Proper Tea Co. were outside serving tea and crumpets for all. Delicious and definitely needed to warm those cockles.
To see and purchase Mr Porters, London Collections Men collaboration pieces, go here.
Millie Rich
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON.
Anti-outfits and division echoed throughout Christopher Shannon’s AW13 show, removable zipper sleeves on outerwear sit alongside multiple panel sweaters and knits in a combination of bright reds, deep mints and tonal browns forming the core of this rebellious collection.
Gaffer tape appeared on trousers which seemed to initiate much of the exposed detailing seen throughout and dislocated flaps of material were seen on the knitwear and shirting intensifying and echoing the anti-outfit feel.
Female models appeared wearing cleaner printed sweaters and sheer cut shirting to work against masculine counterparts of leather shirts and heavier knitwear.
A beautifully ostentatious collection, developing a new range of staples to sit alongside his evident fondness of luxe streetwear.
Millie Rich
Images courtesy of Style.com
VLOV Spring/Summer 2013
Peace and serenity were the theme at Qing Qing Wu’s VLOV. Blue-grey silk suits produced a pleasant sheen, while khaki and cream colored linens set the tone for a relaxed spring/summer. The soft color palette and delicately crinkled fabrics lent themselves readily to easygoing silhouettes. The showstopper was a slim sherbet-colored pant suit paired with a scrim-like button down trimmed in palm trees that garnered a few whoops from the audience.
Todd Snyder Spring/Summer 2013
Sleek chic men work the room at The Box, Lincoln Center. Todd Snyder presented his best dressed men geared up in chino shorts, pants and shirts tied at the waist. Urban met college grad with Todd Snyder’s “Saharan Prep.” Classics were made refined while Snyder’s rugged aesthetic delivered easy style.
Julian Zigerli
ONES TO WATCH
Lets talk about Pattern….
Going against the usual darker tones of winter. Julian Zigerli, creates an uplifting vision of a winter less harsh. Focusing on sheer fabrics and repeat pattern, this will definitely be the collection to have with this oh so familiar Indian summers
James Ball Londonlifeandstyle
Joseph Turvey
ONES TO WATCH
Inspiration was drawn from strong women, such as Hattie Jaques and Margo (of the Good Life) with playful characters to create a colourful, flamboyant, eclectic collection of Winterwear that was an insight into Spring/ Summer 2013.
Shapes were structured and fitted, devoré textures with 70’s Margoesque daisy florals and sailor stripes.
James Ball Londonlifeandstyle
STREET STYLE LFW MENSWEAR
James Ball Londonlifeandstyle
